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How to use Straight
Razors |
| How should i honed my Razor? |
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The honing should be done
only about once in one or two months in the following way: you probably
preferably should have a large Belgianoil stone, completely smooth. Put
some drops of oil (Buck's, or sewing machine oil, but no alimentary oil - no
reason specified) on it. Cleaning the stone: Advises vary from cleaning with
a cloth to cleaning with steel wool, or not cleaning at all. The ratio of
cleaning is in removing metal particles out of the stone's pores, according
to razor Edge Systems. Uncleaned stones kept their quality in their
experiments, however. This still has to be cleared. the first is to ensure
that the razor lays completely flat, so that the edge and the back touch the
stone surface. This is to keep the exact required angle of the edge. The
second is, that the razor remains flat on the stone during the movement. If
you don't have experience, you will only succeed doing so if you hone
extremely slow, and study the process carefully. Only then you will be able
to observe that during the stroke, the edge or the back will tend to lift
from the stone a millimeter on one side which you must correct, which is
only possible when honing extremely slowly. Here, speed does not add up to
better results, not even in experienced hands.This will give excellent
results even for beginners . The third is, that you don't press on the blade while
honing: the weight of the blade is enough. Pressing will deform the angle.
Hones should be large, because the surface is then completely in contact
with the cutting edge; any damage or irregarities to the sides of the stone
are then less critical because you will not reach them. |
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| What is stropping technique? |
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When you shave, the cutting
edge gets somewhat misaligned microscopically. It looks like micro serrations,
bending aside irregularly. If you put the knife away, the cutting edge
stretches ('grows') spontaneously within 24 hours. After 3 or 4 shaves it
should be aligned a little bit again and therefore you must strop. If you do
that correctly, and treat the blade well, you only need to hone once every
month or even year, and never send it in fro grinding. You need the right
strop and the right paste. The game is, to postpone honing as long as
possible, and to use the strop almost exclusively. Any other reports are due
to wrong care. Stropping occurs at the exact same angle as with honing.
Stropping serves to polish the edge and to align any remaining misalignment
of the micro serrations. This implies that a hanging strop should be kept
under tension to keep the angle correct. Strop only before shaving, after the
edge could 'grow' for at least 24 hours, burt preferably 48 hours. If you
strop the edge immediately ater shaving, the misaligned micro serrations
behave as a burr, which will break off and penetrate the leather, which will
turn into sandpaper. If you honed just before stropping, clean the blade
with water and soap and dry with a cloth without touching the edge; this too
is to prevent small metal parts to get stuck into the strop, which can
damage the edge while stropping. Keep the tang between index finger and
thumb and keep those fingers stretched. Place the blade flat on the strop.
In case of a hanging strop, keep it under tension continuously, because if
you let it hang through, you will create a round and therefore blunt cutting
edge. Pull the blade over the strop away from the cutting edge and in the
direction of the back. If you strop the other way in the direction of the
edge (which is the case during honing), you will cut through the strop, or
you will cause knicks which will damage the razor. In the course of this
stroke, take care that the complete cutting edge has touched the strop. The
pressure of the knife on the strop should not exceed the weight of the
knife, to prevent rounding and thus blunting the cutting edge. At the end of
the stroke, keep the blade in contact with the strop, and swing the blade
180 degrees, causing it to rotate around the back; the back should keep in
contact with the strop. Then do a stroke in the other direction. Repeat this
about 10-60 times. Do this procedure first on the canvas (about 10 times)
next on the leather. |
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| Tell us about Sharpness of
Razor blades? |
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If you carefully rub your
thumb over the edge perpendicular to the edge, you should hear a
high-frequent tingling sound and it should feel a little sticky. To detect
any knicks cut very superficially over your nail. Any irregularity feels
like a sudden obstacle. The nail method is not to test for sharpness, but
for iregularities. You can also keep the edge towards a bright lamp; a sharp
edge surface (not the blade) should not contain reflecting parts, because a
sharp edge has almost no surface that can reflect. One of another technique
,make a cutting movement parallel to your arm, trying to cut a few hairs not
directly above the skin surface, but 3-5 mm above. A sharp edge will bite
into the hair, a blunt knife will not. If the hair test is positive but
shaving not, the blade may be irregularly sharpened or the hardening process
might be done incorrect. Try stropping again. A new blade must be stropped,
and will perform better after a few weeks of use. 'The blade will be
settled'. This is to encourage perfectionists. |
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| How do I shave with the
razor? |
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The beginner starts first
with the smooth and unproblematic areas of the face. To do this, the opened
razor is held with thumb and three fingers so that the opened holder points
away from the face. Lathered with good shaving soap and thus made supple,
the skin must be tightened; the razor is moved at an angle of approx. 30°
firstly in the direction of growth of the beard and then against the
direction of growth. If held too flat, the razor rips the stubble; if held
too upright, it cuts the skin. Always move it in the direction of the
cutting edge and never horizontally (danger of injury); always draw it
through evenly and hold it a little more upright at corners, dimples and at
the upper lip. If the razor gets damaged by being dropped or when being put
into its holder, it should not be used further. Stropping does not help
here; the razor must be resharpened and whetted by a specialist. |
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| What sort of steel is most
suitable for straight razors? |
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The basic materials for good
straight razors are standard steels with a carbon content of 0.6% and
greater and which attain a maximum of hardness, elasticity and resistance to
wear in a careful process of tempering and treatment. High Carbon silver
steel has the advantage of easy sharpening. |
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This article is submitted from Venus
Worldwide, Leading manufacturer and exporters of quality Beauty Tools,
Pet grooming products, barber scissors, manicure products, skin care and
facial tools.
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